FOREIGNDLY · FOREIGNDLY ·
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Switzerland
Switzerland
How to install a native Italian voice
iPhone (iOS 17–26)
  1. Settings → Accessibility
  2. Tap Read & Speak (older iOS: Spoken Content)
  3. Tap VoicesItalian
  4. Pick the Italian voice; if Enhanced/Premium is offered, choose it and let it download
  5. Come back here → re-check
Android (wording varies by phone)
  1. Settings → AccessibilityText-to-speech output
  2. Use Speech Services by Google → gear → Install voice data
  3. Choose Italian (Italiano) → download
  4. Come back here → re-check

The five Italian phrases that do 80% of the work

Buongiorno
bwohn-JOR-noh
Hello / good day. The first word into any shop, cable car, waiting room or grotto in Ticino. From late afternoon it becomes buonasera.
Grazie
GRAHT-syeh
Thank you. Grazie mille for a bigger one. The answer coming back will be prego.
Per favore
pehr fah-VOH-reh
Please. Hang it on the end of everything and you sound raised right.
Scusi
SKOO-zee
Excuse me / sorry. To squeeze past on the boat or catch a waiter's eye. Note the s buzzes like a z here — that's the northern mouth.
Parla inglese?
PAR-lah een-GLEH-zeh
Do you speak English? Ask it after the buongiorno, never instead of it. In Lugano and Locarno the answer is usually yes.

First time? Do this

  • Audio is built in. Tap any phrase to hear it in a native voice — pre-recorded and cached, so it just works offline, no setup. (The voice bar can still pick a phone voice as a backup.)
  • Phrases — drilled by situation: the grotto, bars, directions, the lake. Hit play, then say it back out loud.
  • Sounds — nine letters unlock almost everything. Ten minutes here pays off the most.
  • Customs — the unspoken rules. This is where tourists actually give themselves away.
  • Practice — hear / read / recall / speak. Use it on the plane.
Situational Italian

Right thing, right moment.

Tap a chip to jump to a scene — or just search. Common holds the go-anywhere basics (hello, thanks, where's the toilet); a few phrases like drinks live under more than one scene.

Common — useful everywhere · greetings · basics · the toilet

Buongiorno
bwohn-JOR-noh
Hello / good day. The first word into any shop, cable car, waiting room or grotto in Ticino. From late afternoon it becomes buonasera.
Grazie
GRAHT-syeh
Thank you. Grazie mille for a bigger one. The answer coming back will be prego.
Per favore
pehr fah-VOH-reh
Please. Hang it on the end of everything and you sound raised right.
Scusi
SKOO-zee
Excuse me / sorry. To squeeze past on the boat or catch a waiter's eye. Note the s buzzes like a z here — that's the northern mouth.
Parla inglese?
PAR-lah een-GLEH-zeh
Do you speak English? Ask it after the buongiorno, never instead of it. In Lugano and Locarno the answer is usually yes.
Dov'è il bagno?
doh-VEH eel BAH-nyoh
Where's the toilet / bathroom / restroom? The signs read WC or servizi, and in stations you'll usually need a coin or a card.
Dov'è...?
doh-VEH
Where is...? Drop in any place — Dov'è la farmacia?, Dov'è il bancomat? (the cash machine), Dov'è il posteggio? (the car park, and posteggio is the Swiss word for it).
Può aiutarmi?
pwoh ah-yoo-TAR-mee
Can you help me?
Quanto costa?
KWAHN-toh KOH-stah
How much is it?
Non capisco
nohn kah-PEE-skoh
I don't understand.
Più lentamente, per favore
pyoo lehn-tah-MEHN-teh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
Slower, please. Your secret weapon — and if what you're hearing still isn't Italian, it's the local Lombard dialect, and asking will switch it.
Va bene
vah BEH-neh
Okay / that works / fine. The all-purpose yes.

Greetings & manners · the social handshake

Buonasera
bwoh-nah-SEH-rah
Good evening. From around five on — earlier in winter, when the sun drops behind the valley wall at four.
Ciao
chow
Hi / bye — casual, and only with people you'd call tu. To the shopkeeper you've just met it's still buongiorno.
Come sta?
KOH-meh STAH
How are you? (polite). Among friends: come stai?
Bene, grazie. E lei?
BEH-neh, GRAHT-syeh. eh LEH-ee
Fine, thanks. And you? Handing the question back is the whole point of asking.
Prego
PREH-goh
You're welcome / after you / go ahead. One word doing four jobs — it's also what you say holding a door.
Piacere
pyah-CHEH-reh
Pleased to meet you. With a handshake — the default here even in relaxed company, and firm.
Arrivederci
ah-ree-veh-DEHR-chee
Goodbye. Said on the way out of every shop, even if you bought nothing. ArrivederLa is the extra-polite version.
Buona giornata
BWOH-nah jor-NAH-tah
Have a good day. The sign-off at the till; the cashier says it first and you say it back. After dark it becomes buona serata.
Ci vediamo
chee veh-DYAH-moh
See you. Warm and open-ended, for anyone you expect to run into again.

Al grotto · ordering & dining

grotto GROHT-toh — a rustic stone eatery with a shaded terrace — not a cave

Un tavolo per due, per favore
oon TAH-voh-loh pehr DOO-eh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A table for two, please.
Ho una riservazione
oh OO-nah ree-zehr-vaht-SYOH-neh
I have a booking. Riservazione is the Swiss word; Italy says prenotazione and will still understand you. Worth having on a summer weekend — the good grotti fill.
Possiamo comandare?
pohs-SYAH-moh koh-mahn-DAH-reh
Can we order? In Ticino you comandare your food where the rest of the Italian-speaking world ordina it. Nobody will blink at ordinare, but this one is local.
Cosa mi consiglia?
KOH-zah mee kohn-SEEL-yah
What do you recommend? The question that gets you the real food. At a small grotto there may be no menu at all — the day's dishes get recited at the table.
Avete qualcosa di nostrano?
ah-VEH-teh kwahl-KOH-zah dee noh-STRAH-noh
Do you have anything local? Nostrano — "ours" — is the word on Ticinese menus and labels for what was made right here: the cheese, the salami, the wine.
C'è la polenta?
cheh lah poh-LEHN-tah
Is there polenta? Stirred for hours in a copper pot and served with brasato (braised beef), rabbit, or sausages. The dish the canton is built on.
Delle luganighe, per favore
DEHL-leh loo-gah-NEE-gheh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
Some luganighe, please. The Ticinese pork sausage, grilled, next to the polenta. The small ones are luganighette.
Possiamo sederci fuori?
pohs-SYAH-moh seh-DEHR-chee FWOH-ree
Can we sit outside? At a grotto that means the granite tables under the chestnut trees, which is the entire reason to come.
Buon appetito
bwohn ahp-peh-TEE-toh
Enjoy your meal. Said to your table, and to the strangers sharing the long table with you, before anyone picks up a fork.
Sono vegetariano
SOH-noh veh-jeh-tah-RYAH-noh
I'm vegetarian. (A woman says vegetariana.) Polenta, risotto and the cheeses will look after you.
Sono allergico a...
SOH-noh ahl-LEHR-jee-koh ah
I'm allergic to... e.g. alle noci (nuts), al glutine, al lattosio. (A woman: allergica.)
Una caraffa d'acqua del rubinetto, per favore
OO-nah kah-RAHF-fah DAHK-kwah dehl roo-bee-NEHT-toh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A carafe of tap water, please. The water here comes off the mountain and is superb — but a Swiss restaurant is under no obligation to give it to you free, and plenty put a couple of francs on the bill for the carafe.
Era ottimo
EH-rah OHT-tee-moh
That was excellent. Gold with anyone who cooked for you, and at a grotto that is usually the person who brought it out.
Il conto, per favore
eel KOHN-toh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
The bill, please. Nobody will bring it unasked — leaving you alone with your table is the courtesy.
Possiamo pagare separatamente?
pohs-SYAH-moh pah-GAH-reh seh-pah-rah-tah-MEHN-teh
Can we pay separately? Completely normal; the waiter will go round the table one by one.
Un boccalino di merlot
oon bohk-kah-LEE-noh dee mehr-LOH
A jug of merlot. The little glazed ceramic jug is the boccalino, and at a grotto it is how the house red arrives — poured out into small tumblers for the table.
Due deci di rosso
DOO-eh DEH-chee dee ROHS-soh
Two decilitres of red. Switzerland measures wine by the decilitre rather than the glass, in all three of its languages — un deci, due deci, tre deci.
Una gazosa
OO-nah gah-ZOH-zah
A gazosa. The Ticinese fizzy lemonade — lemon, mandarin, raspberry — still bottled in the valleys and the standard order for anyone not drinking. Spelled with one z on this side of the border.
È libero questo posto?
eh LEE-beh-roh KWEH-stoh POH-stoh
Is this seat free? Ask before you sit. Sharing a long table is normal; taking one isn't.
Salute!
sah-LOO-teh
Cheers! Clink with every single person at the table and hold eye contact through the clink — looking away is the one thing that reads badly.
Cin cin!
cheen CHEEN
Cheers! — the lighter, clinking-glasses version. Interchangeable with salute.
Un caffè, per favore
oon kahf-FEH, pehr fah-VOH-reh
An espresso, please. Un caffè is always the small strong one. It closes the meal here the way it does south of the border, and it costs about three times as much.
Una grappa, per favore
OO-nah GRAHP-pah, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A grappa, please. Often distilled from the merlot pressings, and often what appears on the table after the coffee whether you asked or not.
Un bicchiere di rosso, per favore
oon beek-KYEH-reh dee ROHS-soh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A glass of red, please. Unless you say otherwise it will be merlot, and that's the right answer.
Dov'è un buon grotto?
doh-VEH oon bwohn GROHT-toh
Where's a good grotto? Asked of anyone local, this gets you off the lakefront and up a switchback road to stone tables in the shade — and they'll tell you which day it's closed and what to order.
Posso pagare con la carta?
POHS-soh pah-GAH-reh kohn lah KAR-tah
Can I pay by card? Nearly always yes, phone included — but a small valley grotto may still be cash only, so ask before you eat.
Va bene così
vah BEH-neh koh-ZEE
That's fine as it is — keep the change. Say it as you hand over the rounded-up amount; that is the whole transaction.

Bars & aperitivo · your evening

Facciamo un aperitivo?
fah-CHAH-moh oon ah-peh-ree-TEE-voh
Shall we have an apéro? The invitation you say yes to — a drink and something small to pick at, around six, before anything else happens.
Una birra piccola, per favore
OO-nah BEER-rah PEEK-koh-lah, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A small beer, please. Media or grande gets you the bigger one; add alla spina for draught.
Offro io
OHF-froh EE-oh
This round's on me. Literally "I'm offering" — the fastest way to be part of the table.

Merlot country · tasting & buying

Possiamo fare una degustazione?
pohs-SYAH-moh FAH-reh OO-nah deh-goo-staht-SYOH-neh
Can we do a tasting? Say it at a cantina — the canton is dense with small producers and most will open a few bottles for you.
Che vino mi consiglia?
keh VEE-noh mee kohn-SEEL-yah
Which wine do you recommend?
È merlot del Ticino?
eh mehr-LOH dehl tee-CHEE-noh
Is this Ticino merlot? Brought over from Bordeaux a century ago after phylloxera killed the old vines, and now the grape that covers most of the canton. Asking by name says you did your homework.
Avete il bianco di Merlot?
ah-VEH-teh eel BYAHN-koh dee mehr-LOH
Do you have the white Merlot? A white wine made from the red grape, pressed straight off the skins — a Ticinese speciality you won't meet anywhere else.
Secco o dolce?
SEHK-koh oh DOHL-cheh
Dry or sweet?
Possiamo visitare la cantina?
pohs-SYAH-moh vee-zee-TAH-reh lah kahn-TEE-nah
Can we see the cellar? Often literally cut into the hillside, and about ten degrees cooler than the terrace you were sitting on.
Possiamo comprare una bottiglia?
pohs-SYAH-moh kohm-PRAH-reh OO-nah boht-TEEL-yah
Can we buy a bottle? Very little Ticino wine ever leaves Switzerland — if you like it, the cellar door is where you get it.
Ottimo vino!
OHT-tee-moh VEE-noh
Excellent wine! Say it to the grower and something better tends to appear.

Finding your way · asking directions

È lontano?
eh lohn-TAH-noh
Is it far? The answer comes in minutes, not kilometres — and if it's uphill, in minutes of walking.
A sinistra
ah see-NEE-strah
Left.
A destra
ah DEH-strah
Right.
Sempre dritto
SEHM-preh DREET-toh
Straight ahead. Literally "always straight".
Dov'è la stazione?
doh-VEH lah staht-SYOH-neh
Where's the station? In any Ticinese town it's the centre of gravity — the local buses and the yellow autopostale up the valleys all leave from outside it.
Dov'è l'imbarcadero?
doh-VEH leem-bar-kah-DEH-roh
Where's the boat pier? The word printed on every lakeside sign and timetable.
Dov'è la funicolare?
doh-VEH lah foo-nee-koh-LAH-reh
Where's the funicular? The one that climbs on rails — Monte Brè and San Salvatore both go up out of Lugano. A cable car hanging from a wire is a funivia.
Può mostrarmelo sulla cartina?
pwoh moh-STRAR-meh-loh SOOL-lah kar-TEE-nah
Can you show me on the map? The one to fall back on when the directions outrun your Italian. Hold out a paper map or your natel — a mobile phone is a natel everywhere in Switzerland, Ticino included.
Mi sono perso
mee SOH-noh PEHR-soh
I'm lost. (A woman says mi sono persa.)

Taxis & trains · rides & tickets

Può chiamare un taxi?
pwoh kyah-MAH-reh oon TAHK-see
Could you call a taxi? Ask at the hotel desk or at the bar — outside the station ranks, taxis here are phoned for rather than waved down. The phone they reach for is a natel, the Swiss word for a mobile, in Ticino as much as in Zurich.
All'aeroporto, per favore
ahl-lah-eh-roh-POR-toh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
To the airport, please. Worth knowing that Ticino's nearest big airport is Milan Malpensa, over the border — there's a direct bus, and a train to Lugano.
A questo indirizzo, per favore
ah KWEH-stoh een-dee-REET-tsoh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
To this address, please. Show them your phone.
Quanto costa fino a...?
KWAHN-toh KOH-stah FEE-noh ah
How much is it to...? Meters are standard and honest — this one is for your own planning.
Si fermi qui, per favore
see FEHR-mee kwee, pehr fah-VOH-reh
Stop here, please.
Un biglietto per Bellinzona, per favore
oon beel-YEHT-toh pehr behl-leen-TSOH-nah, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A ticket to Bellinzona, please. Swap in any town. Andata e ritorno is a return, solo andata a single — and there are no stamping machines here; a Swiss ticket is valid as sold.
Da che binario parte?
dah keh bee-NAH-ryoh PAR-teh
Which platform does it leave from? Binario is the word on the board — north of the Gotthard the same concrete is a Perron, and in the west a voie.
Il prossimo treno per Lugano?
eel PROHS-see-moh TREH-noh pehr loo-GAH-noh
The next train to Lugano? There'll be one within the half hour, and it will leave at the minute printed.

On the lake boat · piers & timetables

Un biglietto per il battello, per favore
oon beel-YEHT-toh pehr eel baht-TEHL-loh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A ticket for the boat, please. The battello is a scheduled service on the lake, not an excursion — and often the sensible way to reach a village.
A che ora parte il battello?
ah keh OH-rah PAR-teh eel baht-TEHL-loh
What time does the boat leave? At that time exactly — the gangway comes in before it.
Si ferma a Gandria?
see FEHR-mah ah GAHN-dryah
Does it stop at Gandria? Swap in any pier. Gandria is stacked up the cliff east of Lugano with no road worth using, so the boat is how you arrive.
Si va in Italia?
see vah een ee-TAH-lyah
Does it go into Italy? Both lakes spill over the border, so take your passport. Campione, on the Lugano shore, is Italian soil surrounded by Switzerland and spends francs.
Possiamo stare sul ponte?
pohs-SYAH-moh STAH-reh sool POHN-teh
Can we sit up on deck? Yes — and the top deck is where the mountains are.
Quando parte l'ultimo battello?
KWAHN-doh PAR-teh LOOL-tee-moh baht-TEHL-loh
When does the last boat leave? Ask before you settle in on the far shore, not after.

Shops & getting by · everyday

È in azione?
eh een aht-SYOH-neh
Is it on special offer? Azione is the word on every red supermarket sticker in Switzerland, borrowed straight off the German Aktion. In Italy the word just means "an action".
Sto solo guardando
stoh SOH-loh gwar-DAHN-doh
I'm just looking — in a shop, with a smile.
Avete...?
ah-VEH-teh
Do you have...?
Un sacchetto, per favore
oon sahk-KEHT-toh, pehr fah-VOH-reh
A carrier bag, please. You pay for it, and you're expected to pack your own shopping while the next person is already being served.
Scusi, non parlo italiano
SKOO-zee, nohn PAR-loh ee-tah-LYAH-noh
Sorry, I don't speak Italian. The graceful exit — after the buongiorno, not instead of it.
Posso caricare il natel?
POHS-soh kah-ree-KAH-reh eel NAH-tel
Can I charge my phone? Worth asking in a café or at your hotel desk. Natel is what a mobile phone is called all over Switzerland — in Italian, French and German alike — so it is the word on the shop sign here; the Italian cellulare is understood, but you will hear natel first.

Lakes & valleys · quick vocab

il lago
eel LAH-goh
The lake. Ceresio is the old name for Lugano's; Verbano for Maggiore.
la montagna
lah mohn-TAH-nyah
The mountain.
la valle
lah VAHL-leh
The valley. Verzasca, Maggia, Bavona, Onsernone — each a separate world at the end of a bus route.
il sentiero
eel sehn-TYEH-roh
The footpath. The yellow signposts along it give walking times, not distances.
la capanna
lah kah-PAHN-nah
The mountain hut. Bunks, one hot dish, a long shared table.
le castagne
leh kah-STAH-nyeh
Chestnuts. The woods above these lakes are chestnut, they fed the valleys for centuries, and in October the villages roast them in the square.
la cascata
lah kah-SKAH-tah
The waterfall. The one at Foroglio drops out of the rock beside the hamlet, at the top of Val Bavona.
il fiume
eel FYOO-meh
The river. The Verzasca runs impossibly green over white rock under the double-arched bridge at Lavertezzo.

Numbers 1–100 · prices & ordering

uno
OO-noh
1
due
DOO-eh
2due deci, two decilitres, is the everyday pour of wine.
tre
treh
3
quattro
KWAHT-troh
4
cinque
CHEEN-kweh
5
sei
say
6
sette
SEHT-teh
7
otto
OHT-toh
8
nove
NOH-veh
9
dieci
DYEH-chee
10
venti
VEHN-tee
20venti franchi.
cinquanta
cheen-KWAHN-tah
50 — the note you hand over on a bill of forty-six.
cento
CHEHN-toh
100cento franchi. Prices are said as francs and centesimi: quattro e cinquanta is 4.50.
Formal default: Lei is the default with anyone you haven't been introduced to — shop staff, waiters, the person you greet on a footpath — and tu is offered rather than assumed; among peers, and around a shared grotto table, it usually arrives before the second carafe.
Hearing & reading Italian

Italian read exactly as written — with a northern mouth.

Spelling and grammar are the Italian you'd learn anywhere: every letter is said, the vowels stay pure, stress falls second-to-last. What's different is the sound around it — lighter double consonants, a buzzing s between vowels, a flatter melody — plus a Lombard dialect underneath and a handful of words (azione, riservazione, comandare) that Switzerland put in and Italy never had. Nine sounds cover almost everything on these cards.

Start here — the five worth practising

Knowing what a letter sounds like isn't the same as being able to make it. These five are where English mouths actually go wrong: what to do, what to stop doing, and a native recording you can slow down and copy.

c ch
c and ch swap jobs

What your mouth doesc before e or i is the CH of CHurch: Ticino is "tee-CHEE-noh". ch is always a hard K: Chiasso is "KYAHS-soh". Exactly backwards from English, and completely regular once you flip it.

The mistakeReading them the English way — "tee-SEE-no" or a soft ch in Chiasso. The h is there to make the c hard, never soft.

Ticinothe canton — soft c: "tee-CHEE-noh"
Chiassothe border town — hard ch: "KYAHS-soh"
ll tt ss
Double letters are held, not repeated

What your mouth doesWhen a consonant is doubled, land on it and hold it for a beat before letting go: grotto is "GROHT-toh" — close for the t, wait a breath, release. Bellinzona leans on its ll the same way.

The mistakeSkimming through as one short consonant. The held beat is part of the word, and some pairs really do differ only by the hold.

grottothe stone tavern — hold the tt
Bellinzonathe capital — lean on the ll
gli gn
The g is a signpost, not a sound

What your mouth doesFor gli, press the flat of your tongue to the roof of your mouth and slide out an L and a Y together — biglietto is "beel-YET-toh", no hard g anywhere. gn is the same trick with N, the "ny" of canyon: castagne is "kahs-TAHN-yeh".

The mistakeSaying the g. "big-lee-ET-to" and "kas-TAG-neh" add a consonant Italian never puts there.

bigliettoticket — "beel-YET-toh"
castagnechestnuts — "kahs-TAHN-yeh"
r
A tap, not an English R

What your mouth doesRest the tip of your tongue on the ridge behind your top teeth and flick it once — the same flick as the middle of butter in an American mouth: tre. Doubled rr keeps the air going so the tip flutters.

The mistakeThe English R, tongue bunched at the back — it blurs tre into "tray" and marks every word it touches.

trethree — one crisp tap
Arrivedercigoodbye — a run of taps to practise
sc
sh before e and i, sk everywhere else

What your mouth doessc before e or i is "sh": pesce is "PEH-sheh". Before a, o, u it is "sk": Scusi is "SKOO-zee". The vowel after it decides.

The mistakeOne reading for both. "PEH-skeh" orders a different-sounding fish, and "SHOO-zee" softens a word that starts hard.

pescefish — "PEH-sheh"
Scusiexcuse me — "SKOO-zee"
Every letter that isn't obvious
c
"ch" before e or i (like CHurch); a hard "k" everywhere else
e.g. Ticino — the canton
ch
always a hard "k" — the h is there to stop the c going soft
e.g. Chiasso — the border town
g
soft "j" before e or i (like Jam); a hard "g" everywhere else
e.g. Maggia — the valley
gh
a hard "g" — the same trick as ch
e.g. luganighe — the local sausages
gn
"ny" like caNYon
e.g. castagne — chestnuts
gli
"lly" like miLLion — the g disappears
e.g. biglietto — ticket
sc
"sh" before e or i (like SHip); "sk" everywhere else
e.g. pesce — fish
z
"ts" or "dz" — never a buzzing English z
e.g. Bellinzona — the cantonal capital
s between vowels
buzzed like a "z" up here — the northern giveaway
e.g. cosa — thing / what
A few rules that explain the rest
Don't-be-that-tourist

The rules nobody prints on the menu.

Your Italian rarely outs you. These do. Read once, and you'll move differently.

Do

Greet first, and use the name

Into a shop, a lift, a waiting room, or passing anyone on a trail — you greet before you speak: Grüezi (GREW-eht-see) in Zurich, Bonjour (bohn-ZHOOR) in Geneva, Buongiorno (bwohn-JOR-noh) in Lugano. With someone you've met, the surname comes with it: "Grüezi, Herr Meier".

Do

On time means on the minute

A 09:04 train leaves at 09:04 and the doors lock before it. Invited for 19:00, you ring the bell at 19:00 — not 19:15, and not 18:45 either. Being late is read as a comment on the other person.

Know

Tipping is rounding up, and no more

Service has been included in the price by law since the 1970s. Round the bill up to the next franc or five and say the total as you pay; ten percent is generous and fifteen looks like a misunderstanding.

Avoid

Don't make noise on Sunday, or after ten

Quiet hours run 22:00 to 07:00 and all day Sunday: no drilling, no shared laundry machines, no bottles into the glass bank. This is written into the house rules and a neighbour will genuinely knock.

Avoid

Don't put the rubbish out in the wrong bag

Most communes only collect household waste in the official taxed bag you buy at the supermarket. Anything else gets opened, traced back to you and fined. Glass, PET and aluminium go to the collection point, sorted by colour.

Know

It's francs, and the francs are the point

Switzerland is not in the euro. Tourist tills near the borders may take euros and hand back francs at a rate you won't enjoy; cards and phone payments work almost everywhere, so there is no reason to change money badly.

Avoid

Don't treat the mountain as a theme park

Weather turns in an hour, the yellow signs give walking times rather than distances, and the last cable car down is a hard deadline. Rescue is superb and it is billed to you — check the forecast and the timetable before you start up.

Do

Say yes to the apéro

Apéro (ah-peh-ROH) — a drink and something small to eat, at five or six, before dinner or before anything official — is the country's real social form. It is how colleagues become friends, and turning one down reads as turning down the people.

Know

In Ticino, lunch happens at a grotto

Stone tables under the chestnut trees, a carafe of merlot poured into a boccalino (bohk-kah-LEE-noh), polenta and slow afternoons. A grotto (GROHT-toh) is a restaurant, not a cave, and it is where the south of the country actually eats.

Food & drink to try

The plates and glasses worth going out of your way for — each with the name as you'd say it out loud.

German-speaking Switzerland
Rösti RUSH-tee
grated potato pressed flat in the pan and fried into a crisp golden cake
Älplermagronen ELP-ler-mah-groh-nen
macaroni and potato baked in cream and cheese under fried onions, with apple purée alongside
Cervelat SER-vuh-lah
short pink pork sausage, ends slit into a cross, grilled over a fire and eaten with bread
Rivella ree-VEL-lah
pale fizzy soft drink made from milk whey, pulled cold out of every station kiosk
Romandie (the French west)
fondue moitié-moitié fon-DEW mwah-tyay-mwah-TYAY
Gruyère and Vacherin melted with white wine, dipped into with bread on long forks
raclette rah-KLET
half a wheel of cheese melted at the cut face and scraped over potatoes, pickles and onions
Fendant fahn-DAHN
dry Valais white from Chasselas grapes, the standing order with anything melted
Abricotine ah-bree-koh-TEEN
clear apricot eau-de-vie from the Valais orchards, poured ice-cold after dinner
Ticino (the Italian south)
polenta e brasato poh-LEN-tah eh brah-ZAH-toh
beef braised slowly in red wine, spooned over cornmeal cooked soft in a copper pot
formaggini for-mah-JEE-nee
small fresh goat cheeses served whole with olive oil, black pepper and bread
torta di pane TOR-tah dee PAH-neh
dark dense pudding of soaked bread with raisins, pine nuts and cocoa, cut into squares
Merlot del Ticino mer-LOH del tee-CHEE-noh
soft local red brought to the table by the carafe and poured into small glazed jugs
Make it stick

Test the four channels.

Understanding Italian by ear, reading, recall, and your own mouth. Quick rounds — do them twice.